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Monday, 4 September 2017

Goodbye Greece, Hello Malta.


For the first time, we left Artemis V on the hard for a whole year, before returning to her.  This was because we had to change the season we sail in, to avoid hurricanes, as this year we are going to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Fortuntely we found her in great shape.  There followed a week of hectic work, preparing her for sea.  We polished the hull and deck, serviced all the winches, replaced the anchor wash pump, repaired the anchor chain counter, set up the bimini etc.etc.etc.

Servicing winches
Jobs, jobs and more jobs for Dimitri and Cheeky Tan.

About to enter the water.
We throught she was ready, but on launching, we discovered that our batteries had died so they had to be replaced too.  This meant a two day delay while we waited for the batteries to be delivered from Athens, so we had two more unexpected, very pleasant taverna meals.  We sailed down the Peloponnisos and as we had left fairly late in the afternoon, we anchored in a beautiful bay, just off the village of Kiparissi.  

Kiparissi village, Peloponnisos
We exited Greece from our next stop, the island of Kythira.  We anchored in the little port of Kapsali.  Unlike last time we were here, the bay was alive with holiday makers, swimming, eating, chatting. We discovered that we could not clear customs here, so a very friendly taxi driver drove us half way across the island to the main ferry port of Dhiakofti.  This gave us an unexpected tour of the island! We were sad to see the devastation that the recent forest fires had caused to the pine forests of the island. 

We said “Goodbye” to Greece at first light the next morning, departing on the three day trip to Malta.  We managed a lovely sail for around 8 hours, but mostly we motored for lack of wind.  We slowed the boat on the last day to arrive in daylight.  We arrived very early the next morning,  winding our way between around 50 anchored ships,  entering  Marsamxett Harbour at dawn.  
Valletta at dawn from Marsamxett Harbour.


Malta has an amazing history. It was, at one stage or another, settled by Neolithic peoples, the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Byzantines, the Knights of St. Johns, the French and the English.  It has the oldest temples known, which are aligned for the equinox and the winter and summer solstices.     These were  built in 3,600 B.C. Within them they found stone and clay statues of  deities and many other artifacts.
 
Neolithic temple entrance.
Statues from Neolithic temple



Malta has undergone two great sieges in it’s history.  The Knights of St. John withstood a Turkish siege in 1562 and the second was in WWII, whereafter the bravery of the Maltese people was rewarded with a George cross to the whole island.  This now flies proudly on their flag. We will just be missing the celebration of the defeat of the Turks on 8th September and the entire island is festooned with flags, in anticipation of this.  

Flags above a village in central Malta.


Lunch stop in Marsaxlokk fishing village.
The headquarters of the Knights was Fort St. Angelo, which was also heavily bombed in WWII and still stands proud.
 
Fort St. Angelo,  Valletta Harbour.
The whole island is built from limestone blocks. There are some magnificent structures in many of the towns.  We visited the Grand Masters Palace and Armory (used now by the President of Malta), 

The Armory museum

St John’s Cathedral in which many knights are buried under the floor,
Knight's grave
Knight's 
 the Inquisitor’s Palace (the only one opened by the Catholic Church to the public) complete with torture chamber and prison cells.

Grand Master's Palace
Kitchen in Inquisitor's palace


We leave on Tuesday 5th September for Sicily, bound for Porto Empedocle.